There are two options on offer. One is a conventional looking guard while the other is a more compact metal one that sits between the engine exhaust and front part of the crankcase. Both can be had in either matte black or stainless steel finish.

Lowers the initial cost, warranty only lasts so long anyway. Have to compete with others who do similar things. OEM doesn’t have to do the repairs. They would prefer customers buy a new car anyway than repair things.

While engine oil temperature (EOT) should never be ignored, in 6.0L Power Stroke applications it should always be displayed on any monitor or gauge you’re using, along with coolant temp (ECT). This is because the coolant side of the engine’s oil cooler is prone to clogging, blocking coolant flow and super-heating the engine oil. A difference of 10 to 15 degrees or more between the two parameters indicates that this is happening. Products such as the Edge Insight CTS2 and SCT Livewire TS+ have proven invaluable to 6.0L owners, who—thanks to consistently monitoring the delta between EOT and ECT—have been able to detect the early warning signs of an oil cooler failure. (Note that once the oil cooler is completely plugged it often leads to catastrophic EGR cooler failure as well).

The RESET output remains asserted for the reset timeout period after RESET IN rises above the reset threshold. The reset function notifies the controller concerning this low-power condition (Fig. 4).

No one here is defending this as simple maintenance just because it’s a Honda. There will, however, likely be a noticeable absence of a certain few big time Honda fans on this thread.

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This is a summary of current recommendations and price targets for Gentex and Standard Motor Products, as provided by MarketBeat.

My assessment from 12 000 miles away? I’d like to have back all the time I’ve wasted because I just knew there had to be a better solution. The fact that gas mileage immediately went into the tank–pun intended–as soon as you seriously compressed the tank by letting it down on the support is extremely suspicious. Seems to me as if you might have damaged the fuel-return line/mechanism from the injector system to the tank which, of course, would live out of sight, unable to be inspected except by dropping the tank. The simple system which returns unused fuel from the injectors to the tank is an extremely important factor in the good-gas-mileage equation.

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But even a two-wheel-drive version needs a close check to make sure a tradie hasn’t worked the thing to death Monday to Friday.

21. Coils are another item that you could scrounge up at a salvage yard, but we opted for a new set from Accel (PN ACC-140043K-8). The LS valve covers and coil racks were left over from a Week To Wicked project. We did have an interference issue with the LS1 fuel rail and the more modern LS3 valve covers and coil pack rails. Our solution was to notch the coil pack rack a bit and flip the one coil forward using two small spacers (or a stack of washers in a pinch) to help the coil clear the coil rack.

To the original question; I believe pretty much all new cars have ‘throttle by wire;’ i.e. the throttle plate is driven by a small electric motor controlled by the ECU. If there’s any balkiness in this motor or mechanism you’d get hesitation; my ’96 Ranger experiences the same symptom when intake gunk makes the throttle sticky.